I drive into Klosters with much anticipation. Once a cluster of hamlets and temporary home to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the 1890s, Klosters, I’d been told, was at odds with its reputation as an ‘exclusive, classy hideout’ of the super-rich. What side of it was I going to see or experience?
My anxiety vanishes as I check in at Piz Buin. As I toy with the newsletter, the receptionist offers an explanation: “No five-star hotels here, but we are all about luxury and charm – and, of course, very close-lipped about out visitors. The star ratings and fancy stuff – that’s St Moritz and Verbier.”
A tall claim I think unkindly, as I cover the short distance to Chesa Grischuna for a cup of coffee. It is the most famous meeting point in the village and has hosted Gene Kelly, Greta Garbo, Paul Newman, Gregory Peck, Lauren Bacall, Peter Sellers and Audrey Hepburn and continues to host celebrities in winter. I want to see the famed piano on which a few celebs are touted to have danced away winter nights – so the story goes!
The hotel is clothed in summer flowers, but once inside, I am taken back in time. I see why it is called a “historical house”. A yellowing leather-covered guest book contains signatures and doodles from Winston Churchill, Deborah Kerr, the Queen of Holland, Prince Charles, famous directors, writers. I feel as if history is unfolding before my eyes. I picture Audrey Hepburn lying across the keys and the clinking of crystal glasses as snow settles upon the roof.
Except for the addition of WiFi, not much seems to have changed here. The number of patrons is scarce and there is no difficulty in engaging the restaurant manager in conversation. “In Klosters, you don’t see a lot of Porsches or fur coats, but, if you are lucky, the King of Sweden might be standing behind you at Co-op [the supermarket in Klosters],” he says like a well-rehearsed phrase. “We are a small winter town but I assure you we have seen some bigwigs. They come so often, they are like family.” He winks jovially.
“You must go to Co-Op.”
I am beginning to like Co-Op very much. I order a second cup of coffee. I want to inhale the glorious history of this town.
Talk about uniqueness!
Let me backtrack. On the short walk to Chesa Grischuna, something about the style of the houses had caught my attention. Having just arrived from Davos, the distinction had been obvious. The rooftops in Davos were uniformly flat, but Klosters was built differently, in the style of Walser – with steep, sloping roofs.
No five-star hotels and only Walser-style houses. What was I going to find next?
I stroll through the village to see if there is anything to compare with St Moritz or Verbier; alas, not a single luxury fashion boutique is to be found. Nada. Zilch. Only antique stores, gift shops and ski-rentals and the much-loved Co-op – complete with snow-shovels, brooms and seeds piled to the roof.
Klosters is really one-of-a-kind.
Everywhere I turn, I see confirmation of Klosters’ understated elegance. No roaring cars, but energetic people walking elegantly with a purpose. The absence of window shoppers, bargain hunters and camera-wielding tourists peering into neat gardens around flower-adorned chalets is comforting.
Klosters, let it be known, was called Hollywood on the Rocks in the 1950s, thanks to the huge inflow of Hollywood celebs that left no piste or trail unexplored. Today, there is an equal balance between American A-listers and European elites. However, there is none to be seen anywhere at the moment.
Prince Charles has only recently celebrated 40 years of love affair with Klosters. It is in this village, at the Hotel Walserhof, a classic alpine hotel, to be precise, that the royal entourage resides during their visits. It was here that William and Kate’s relationship became public knowledge.
Taking to the mountains
My destination for the day is Madrisa Land in the Rätikon mountain range, perched 1887m above sea level, overlooking the village of Klosters. Madrisa Land is accessible by gondola lift (not to be confused with cable cars or ski lifts). As the gondola bears me upwards, leaving Klosters slumbering in the mid-morning sun, I smile at the thought of Princes William and Harry learning to ski here years ago.
There is no snow on the mountains, which leaves an enthusiastic outdoorsy person with a huge choice of activities. I am in favour of relaxing at Madrisahof, a charming restaurant facing the beautiful mountains beyond and unravelling the mystery of why cheese tastes better at this altitude.
That said, if you are here with your kids, you will be spoilt for choice. Acquaint your offspring with the petting zoo before making your way to jumping castles, water games, and zip-lining. Retire to the many restaurants to recharge before taking on the mountains all over again.
I soon proceed to Monbiel, a village beyond the town of Klosters, comprising entirely of old wooden houses and a suspension bridge. Beyond it, a narrow hiking path trails into the woods. Evening is drawing close and I am forced to return to the village on the yellow PostBus. As the bus winds its way through the seemingly wooden village, I hear the tinkling of bells. The cows are coming home.
Since I am only staying the night, I am eager to experience Klosters’ only nightclub, Casa Antica. Many stories are exchanged here, chiefly involving Hollywood stars, but, like the rest of Klosters, I follow the dictum of secrecy.
Why Klosters?
Countless is not a number, so here are a few reasons one should visit Klosters:
From Narnia landscapes, soaring snow-capped mountains and open snowfields in winter to a hiking and biking paradise in summer, Klosters is a year-round holiday destination. Its landscape – dotted with pretty wooden huts, flower-strewn paths snaking through alpine forests, glacial streams and pine-scented air – adds to its allure.
Not many prestigious alpine resorts can lay claim to celebrity patronage, glamour and old money as does this tiny hamlet. There is no showing off of furs and fashion labels in Klosters. Instead, it is true to its passion: skiing.
In winter, Klosters provides fun on the pistes, cross-country trails, ice fields and toboggan runs at night; thanks to a range of floodlit areas, guests are allowed to enjoy sports and fun until late in the evening. You can put on your skates and try your hand at the ice rink too. here all you need is desire.
***
In the morning, I bend my path towards the Co-Op. Conversations are easy to make here in Klosters. Everyone is willing to talk. I see a smiling face inching towards me.
“How quaint everything is! I love it here. You are definitely lucky to be here,” I gush, a little stupidly.
“You haven’t seen quaint till you have seen a woman taking a baby and a horse for a morning walk,” chuckles the woman.
Even my imaginative mind cannot draw up that picture. She laughs out loud and bids me a good morning. Her laugh is as quaint as the village she lives in.
As I peer into the aisles filling up in Co-Op one last time, I am still hopeful of having a celebrity moment of my own.
